Coast recently sent me some of their latest flashlights to try out. I was excited about the HP17 because it looked like a good mix of power, size, and affordability. What’s the first thing I do with it? Tape it to my chest! (more…)
Category Archives: Tutorials
The light work is only half of the equation in a light painting. Making sure the location is visible is just as important, if not more so. Using bright lights or pyro make it tough to get a nice balanced exposure that really shows off your environment. This, in turn, can render your act of trespassing and wading through muddy snake ridden waters entirely pointless. (more…)
The above image is a long exposure shot as JPG and is straight from the camera. Here’s a walk through of how it was made. (more…)
I really dig fog. A lot. A whole hell of a lot actually. I even wrote about using it in long exposure photography a few months ago.
For this one, the idea was simple and the execution was fast. It’s only a 14 second exposure. Here’s how it went down.
First off, I set up a speedlite (@ 1/4 power) with a wireless trigger about 25ft in front of the camera. I zoomed the flash out to 24mm to get a nice wide dispersion of light through the fog, and set it to trigger on the first curtain.
Next, I triggered the camera (I use the rc-1 remote) with a 2 second delay and timed my jump with the flash. It was really a pretty pathetic jump, but the back lighting threw my shadow out in front of me and made it look like I really got some air.
Finally, I held a hula hoop with el wire taped to it in front of the camera and moved it away from the lens three or four feet.
That was it. The photo is a jpg straight out of the camera.
Camera geek info:
Canon 5d mk3 & 24-70L
Here’s the light I used. Disregard the paint roller and stick the hoop is stuck to. I just used the hoop with the blue el wire for the photo. This was something I taped together a couple of years ago. I could have taken the time to make sure the el wire was all pretty and perfectly lined up around the rim of the hoop (which would have made a complete circle of blue around me), but I decided to leave it crooked and uneven. Sometimes you get a little more spice when things aren’t perfect.
You can light up particles in the air for a snazzy effect. The photos below were done by shining a powerful focused light into the air in various weather conditions during a long exposure. You need a light source that outputs some major power to pull off the effect. I used a Coast HP21 and a 3000 lumen Stanley spotlight for these shots. (more…)
Electroluminescent wire (el wire for short) has been used by light painting artists for several years. It’s most common use is creating a glowing smokey effect (ex. 1). A less common use is mounting it onto objects and creating defined shapes and patterns (ex 2).
ex 1: For this photo, blue el wire was taped onto a long stick to get the plumes of light so far above the head of the subject. It was also shot under a full moon which helped light up the environment. A flash light was also used to light behind the subject and the limbs in the center top of the composition.
ex 2: El wire was taped onto a diy rig I fashioned that spun on a tilted axis to create the 3-D effects. It’s the same light source as the above image, just a different application.
This was shot on a moonless night and a small flash light was used to light the trees behind the subject.
Below is the rig used to create the shapes in ex 2. It’s an old bike wheel mounted on an old tripod.
A: el wire taped onto bare copper wire. I used clear scotch tape so the light would be visible in the taped areas. The copper wire attached to the wheel by twisting it around the spokes . It’s important to make sure the “arms” are very secure and don’t wobble.
B: PVC pipe wrapped with black electrical tape. The el wire was wrapped around the pipe so it would be visible as the rig turned 360 degrees. Again, clear tape was used to hold the el wire in place.
C: A bike wheel. I removed the tire from it and painted it black with spray paint.
D: An old aluminum tripod painted black. I fastened the wheel to the head of it.
Uncropped version of the above image.
And here’s the final product. The eyes were lit with a string of battery operated LEDs stuffed into the gas mask. The only environment lighting was a canon speedlite 430ex II fired through the window directly into the subject’s back. There was enough bounced light from the interior of the building to add some fill to the front of the subject. If you look carefully, you can see the faint blue lines below the light shape which were the tripod legs reflecting the light from the el wire. Perfection is so elusive
In addition to creating 3-D shapes with el wire, you can also make some pretty cool 2-D patterns. I taped el wire onto a piece of foamboard and then attached it to my circle maker. I then moved the board around in consistent increments, holding each position for a second or two to burn in the el wire pattern.
Here’s an example of the rig. It’s not the exact pattern I used for the photos below, but you get the idea.
Test shot in the yard.
In this light painting tutorial I’ll explain how to create the fire effect in the above photo. If you aren’t familiar with light painting, check out this post to understand the basics.
What you need:
- eveready electric glow sticks (no, the company does not compensate me for telling you to buy their brand, these glow sticks just work better than others for this effect)
- a flash or flash light
How you do it:
Overexpose the area behind your subject with a flash or torch, but maintain a dark silhouette. Fill in the silhouetted area by jiggling the glow sticks around. Yep, that’s all you have to do for the fire effect… just jiggle glow sticks. The overexposed background helps ensure you don’t color outside the lines with the glow stick. This isn’t a precision trick, but spatial awareness is helpful.
f/8 – 400 ISO is a good place to start. You may need to compensate for ambient light and other variables. Give it a shot and adjust accordingly.
Time-lapse making of vid:
The video step-by-step:
- I first shine a flash light onto the scene to ensure I have the composition I want.
- I step into position and point to flash light at myself as I trigger to camera to help with auto focus.
- I have a speedlite strapped to my back and set to full power which is triggered on the first curtain.
- I jiggle the red electric glow stick everywhere I was standing to fill in the silhouette created by the flash.
Note: There was no post work done for the final image. It’s a single exposure straight out of the camera. The making of video is not the same take as the final image I have presented. A car drove by while I was recording the time-lapse and hosed the shot so I had to do another one.
I hope you find some inspiration in this post. If you have any questions about the technique leave a comment and I’ll get back at you.
What you need:
A paint roller and handle
A stand to mount the paint roller onto. I use a stand from a utility light.
Some lights to tape onto the roller handle. I like strips of LEDs, cold cathodes, and toy swords that light up.
What you do: Tape some lights onto the paint roller handle and attach the roller to the light stand. Using the stand as your center point, rotate the roller to create a circle of light. Since this photo was taken, I’ve painted the light stand black to reduce the amount of light being reflected by the legs.
Below are the two light sources I used for the photo at the top of this post. The one I’m holding is a Citylites LED Stick and the other is a pair of cold cathodes. It’s nothing fancy and just taped on. I prefer the short paint rollers like the one I’m holding in the photo over the 12” size.
Here’s a close up of the paint roller on top of the stand I use. The pieces I had fit together perfectly. You may need to make some modifications or get a little creative to get your rig stable, but at least you get the idea.
Often times, people have a hard time believing you can create this kind of stuff with out the one stop cure-all miracle known as Photoshop. The approach and methods for creating a light painting are very simple and straightforward.
All right, so here’s the basic idea.
What you need:
- A camera with a manual shutter speed, preferably bulb mode.
- Shutter release, I use the wireless canon rc-1. It has one button and an on/off switch. Simple and perfect for working in the dark.
- A dark environment, we are going to be dealing with very long exposure times and just a little bit of ambient light will make a huge impact on how the image turns out.
- Light source(s) (flash lights, electric glow sticks, anything that lights up)
- A dash of creativity.
How you do it:
With the camera mounted on the tripod and set to bulb mode, open the shutter, move lights, illuminate the environment, close shutter.
There are two basic forms of lp: light drawing and surface painting. Drawing with light is done by pointing a light source such as a flash light, LEDs, etc, directly at the camera and creating lines and shapes. Surface painting is when you hide the actual source of light from the camera and use the light to only illuminate the environment you are in. Personally, I like to incorporate both techniques in my work.
This area is totally subjective. Exposure time can range from 10 seconds to 10 minutes. Lower ISO settings will generally give you better quality photos. If you shoot with your aperture wide open it may look as little too soft, hell it might look cool. My point, try some stuff out. Get comfortable with your camera and just experiment. There is no golden rule.
Here are a few making of videos so you can see it in action. Check back soon for more indepth and detailed explanations of light painting techniques.